Guide of Riga

Riga is the capital of Latvia, and this capital city is vast relative to Latvia's tiny population; over one-third of the population lives in Riga. But you wouldn't realise this during summer weekends when everyone leaves the capital to head for their holiday homes in the countryside. 

A brief history of Riga

The city's history began in the second half of the twelfth century when German traders mercenaries and missionaries arrived. They established an outpost for trading with the Balts in 1158 on the site that would become Riga. 1201, the newly-proclaimed Bishop of Livonia, landed in Riga and set up a branch of the Teutonic Knights. In the same year, Riga officially became a city, and its royalty and citizens were all converted to Christianity. By the Reformation in the 16th century, Riga, Livonia and Prussia converted to Protestantism. The city continued to function as a gateway to trade with Baltic tribes and Russia throughout this period and became a very cosmopolitan city with influences from Prussia, Russia, and Latvia. Riga then went under the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and with new rulers, came new religion, but the now thoroughly Protestant Latvians rejected ancient Roman Catholicism from the Commonwealth and during the Thirty Years' War Riga was defended by the King of Sweden. 

The Russo-Swedish War of 1656-1658 saw the Russians try to invade Riga. Still, they kept the Russians out until 1710 when Peter the Great managed to invade and annex Riga to the Russian Empire. It remained a famous port city for the empire until World War I in which the Russian Revolution caused clashes with the German Army. Still, after more than 700 years of German, Swedish, and Russian rule, Latvia declared its independence on November 18, 1918. Riga prospered and developed a democratic, parliamentary system of government with Latvian as the official language. Still, World War II brought everything crashing down. Stalin made a shady deal with Hitler, and the Soviets occupied and annexed Latvia in 1940. Then Hitler came back to claim the country between 1941-1944 until the Red Army seized it again. Although 1945 was the end of the horrors of war, the tug-of-war between the two superpowers had caused massive damage to Latvia. The Jewish population in Riga was devastated, hundreds of thousands of Latvians were killed, and thousands remained in exile all over the world. In short, Latvia lost one-third of its population, its independence to officially become the Soviet Republic. The Soviet occupation undoubtedly changed Riga's architecture, along with its demographics.  There were deportations of hundreds of thousands of Latvian "Nazi collaborators" to Siberia, and thousands of Russians and non-Latvians from other Soviet republics moved into Riga. By 1975, less than 40% of Riga's inhabitants were ethnically Latvian. As the Soviet Empire collapsed in the early 1990s, Latvia gained its independence once more, and today the country is a fully-fledged member of the European Union. 

Things to do in Riga

Riga's Central Market is one of Europe's biggest in Europe, housed in giant zeppelin hangars left behind by the German Army after World War I. It's full of local products from pickled fish to black bread as well as berries and mushrooms foraged from the forests. The city is also full of  Art Nouveau architecture, especially along Alberta iela street. Almost entirely designed by Art Nouveau genius Mikhail Eisenstein and his son, Sergei Eisenstein, a film director and one of the founders of modern cinema. 

For medieval architecture, check out Riga's historical centre, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Spend an afternoon shopping and relaxing in cafes and around the romantic cobblestoned lanes. Admire soaring church steeples and marvelling at architectural gems like the House of Blackheads and St. Peter's Church, which offers breathtaking views from a viewing platform 72 metres up. For a glimpse into the Soviet history of Riga, the former KGB Headquarters exhibit Latvia's turbulent and tragic 20th-century history. Housed in a building that many people were imprisoned in during the Soviet occupation, unforgettable and chilling guided tours of the cells are available. Riga's history of various occupations is also well documented in the excellent Museum of Occupations.

Latvians like a drink and Riga's nightlife is a heady mixture of bars, clubs and beer gardens. One of the most atmospheric places is the Folk Club Ala, housed in a medieval cellar hosting folk bands, hearty Latvian cuisine and loads of local beers and vodkas. If you prefer something more refined, then head to the Latvian National Opera and Ballet for a show at a remarkably affordable price. The white neo-classical building and surrounding gardens are also worth visiting during the day. 

Beaches around Riga

With over 500 km of coast, Latvia has tons of beaches from party beaches to miles of sand to yourself there is plenty to choose from, and the best thing is that beaches are all public. Vecaki beach is in the old fishing area and is one of the most popular beaches in Riga. You can walk on the sandy beach as far as the breakwater on the right bank of the Daugava River, take the number 24 bus or train from Riga Central to Vecaki beach. The seaside resort of Jurmala is just 30 minutes from Riga by train and has kilometres of pine-fringed coastline and unique timber architecture. Several sections of Jurmala – Majori, Dzintari, Bulduri, Dubulti and Jaunkemeri have received the Blue Flag certificates, proving that the beach is clean, safe and well-equipped. In several locations, the beach is accessible for people with special needs.